GREY + GINGER CLOTHING | BREAKING GENDER BINARIES
“The problem with gender is that it prescribes how we should be rather than recognizing how we are. Imagine how much happier we would be, how much freer to be our true individual selves, if we didn’t have the weight of gender expectations.”
― Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, We Should All Be Feminists
Identity is something both personal and political. It’s who we consider ourselves to be, and often it is how others perceive us. Whether it be how we form in groups or how we present ourselves walking down the street. Yet, our choice regarding how we identify along with who and what we identify with, is often a cause of discrimination.
Choosing to express ourselves in our own way and align ourselves with particular social movements or groups, can bring with it exclusion, violence, and fear.
Those who are different, are often persecuted, and bullied for being something other than ‘the norm’. There are struggles and stories much deeper than anything I have ever experienced, and I’ve experienced some. I know what it is like to be a woman in Ireland, fighting for her reproductive autonomy, I know what it is to be a woman who has experienced unwanted physical contact, I know what it was like, to be a girl who dressed differently, who grew up looking at the bodies of others, and comparing her own.
Around us right now in the world, there are toxic feelings towards those who are ‘the other’, or different. It is clear that there is anger in many streets, there are political systems oppressing people, and there is hatred for individuals.
But this isn’t all it’s about.
Because out there, among it all, there are so many more people who are full to the brim with compassion, empathy, and love, and their voices are rising over everything else.
There is a real affirmation in finding out who you really are, and using that in all it’s glory to make the world around you a better place to be. It’s finding comfort in your current self, and being excited about all the wonderful things you can achieve.
I’m speaking about the moment or continuous moments, when you shape yourself into the person you want to be known as. It might be in the moments in which you challenge the traditional stereotypes of gender, or the second you take to say what you believe is right. Is it the afternoon you openly speak about your sexuality? Perhaps it’s the feeling you get when marching with a group of people you admire, chanting, singing and pouring your love for all that is right and good, through each other, and out into the streets in a rainbow of colour. Or is it in the simple, solitary moments in life, when the breeze brushes up against you and you feel comfortable in your own skin?
Most recently I have been working on some incredible projects, I’ve been attending activist meetings, creating artwork in solidarity with those fighting for their rights, researching women’s experiences, and trying my best to put my gender and human rights training into practice. I’m incredibly invested in spending my time with people who are here to make the world a better place – and I’m incredibly proud to call myself a feminist, because with feminism comes the belief of equality for all and the simultaneous regard for the layered history of intersectional women’s issues.
I’ve been connecting with fantastic people who are doing something a little bit different than ‘the norm’, who also care about these issues. Two of those people are the faces behind Grey + Ginger: Paul and Peter. They are based right here in Galway, making incredible conscious clothing with a social message. I decided to interview them about their brand, and what they think of gender in Ireland, among other things. Oh, and in a very cool way, they also interviewed me right back on topics such as gender, influences, and Galway – you can read all about that HERE.
Gender
is
a
social
construct
Those five words have been the backbone of my thoughts, work, research, self-affirmation, adoration, love, and endeavours, for such a long time. In fact, they were something I had been challenging within myself since my youth, although I didn’t know it at the time. What I did know, was that I didn’t seem to think that how things ‘fit’ in society, ‘fitted’ me. I wasn’t interested in dressing how the world suggested, I wanted to mix my style between ‘guys’ and ‘girls’ clothes, I played with all toys irrespective of any gendered agendas, and I found everyone beautiful in their own way. I carried it with me through everything.
According to Peter, something similar influenced the images on their clothing – ‘The artwork is inspired by anyone who dares to be different. I have been obsessed with the concepts of gender and identity since I was told that I couldn’t play with My Little Pony as a child. From that day forward I’ve been fascinated by anyone who operates outside of what is expected of their gender and my fine art practice has been concerned with ideas of identity and gender for the past ten years or so. From the type of subject I am attracted to, to the choice of colour, pattern, and environment, Identity is ingrained in every aspect of my work’. Peter is an exceptionally talented artist, and the beauty of the designs is what drew me towards Grey + Ginger in the first place. Coupled with Paul’s expertise in running an online shop and creativity, this ability to represent a varied spectrum of identities through creating these powerful images and garments unfolded. This combination, is a blend of talent, and also a wonderful way to create a movement for people who may be excluded in other spaces.
With this in mind, Paul continues, ‘Well, the whole idea behind the designs is one of inclusion and diversity – fashion should be all encompassing and we have made that a tenet of the brand from day one. I think that as style and design in fashion hone in on specific areas and demographics, we strive to provide designs that anyone can like’. Paul’s perspective on fashion is a poignant one, fashion and clothing is categorised and sold based largely on gender binaries from a young age with particular styles, colours, and shapes are seemingly off limits to boys and girls.
I’ve worked in retail, and time and time again, I saw children being denied particular clothes or toys because they were ‘made for boys’, or ‘too girly’. These messages stick with us as we grow, and limit our vision of the world around us. Peter agrees, ‘I have no time for the ‘blue is for boys, pink is for girls’ frame of mind. Grey + Ginger stands for positivity and inclusion’. Personally, I think it’s brilliant that a brand are so willing to take a stand against rigid binaries, and allow people to enjoy things simply because they find them to be wonderful. It’s incredible to see a company who actively challenges this, making clothes for everyone.
Similarly to this, speaking about other topics which brands are usually worried about aligning with, such as political events, and divisive topics, is at the heart of Grey + Ginger. In a world where there are many injustices worth speaking about, and incredible conversations to be had about emerging identities, as a society we need to acknowledge political and humanitarian issues, even in our own artistic and subtle ways.
As Peter says, ‘I have always considered my work to be quietly political. I’m not a ‘shout it from the rooftops’ kind of guy but I have a lot to say. Anything I feel strongly about, I make work about and so identity is explored in each design in one way or another. Some subtle, some not so subtle. How we associate femininity or masculinity with hair length for example is dealt with in ‘Warrior’ and ‘Ablaze’ respectively, while ‘Outlaw’ talks about censorship in the media and ‘Willow’ is a commentary on the whitewashing of Asian characters in Hollywood.
These themes may not be instantly recognisable in the work which is why I prefer to describe it as quietly political. If a conversation can be inspired about any of these topics then I feel like my job is done’. This quiet political art is an incredible way to get people involved with helping others, in their own personal way.
Sustainability, which is so important for our planet, is also important to them. Paul explains this in a little more detail. ‘We have researched the garments we use to make sure that they adhere to our principles regarding sustainability. One thing that we decided early is that we are more than happy to have higher overheads if it means our garments are better quality and ethically made’, and continues with, ‘The thought of seeing one of our garments hanging on the rack of a vintage clothes shop in 20 years is a very appealing one!’. It certainly appealing to me too, I feel as though this t-shirt will be something I will look back on, and wear fondly.
I think that’s why Grey + Ginger are welcomed in today’s society, and worn by all different people in Galway and further afield. Groups of people in Ireland, especially those who have bared the brunt of an economic crisis, rising rents, and gendered stereotypes, are vocalising how they feel about issues which speak to them.
When asked if gender norms in Ireland are changing, Peter thinks so. ‘More and more people are opening their eyes to the fact that gender norms are just these weird, made up things that we have accepted to be real for generations. There is still a lot of resistance to change of course but it feels like we’re going in the right direction which is encouraging’.
And while this positive change is welcomed, there are many challenges faced by people in their day to day lives, which Grey + Ginger are aware of.
Peter articulates it so well saying that, ‘There have been huge advancements made in equality with regard to sexuality and gender identity in recent years which is super positive. However, until we have equality of the sexes, we can’t really say that Ireland promotes equality. While it feels great that I now have the same rights as the next guy and can marry my partner in my home country, the fact that my female friends and family don’t have control of their reproductive rights is such a huge injustice’. This ability of both Paul and Peter to vocalise Ireland’s lack of reproductive rights for women and pregnant people, while developing their brand, is a very bold and inspiring move which Ireland needs more of as we work towards human rights for all.
In Galway, there is an abundance of absolutely wonderful people who are supporting local art, creativity, equality and diversity and working towards this common goal of equality and diversity. In Paul’s words, there is something about Galway which makes their brand work. ‘There is such a creative atmosphere here – in any field. From culinary arts to tech, from fashion to music; no creative stone is left unturned in this city. It helped being surrounded by creative types as you basically have a built in market research group at your disposal to give feedback on the website, designs and garment quality. People like Malachy Duggan, who manages the Blue Note, are such amazing supporters of creative collaborations that getting it honed and off the ground was straightforward enough!’
Paul’s fond words, on the vibrancy of Galway, ring true. For anyone who has lived in here, and let it soak into their being, there is an energy in these streets which is unmatched. A devoted city of tribes, working together, to create a spectacular haven along the wild Atlantic.
Living here absolutely warms my heart, and I wanted to shoot this look for Grey + Ginger in the beautiful Galway Streets down the West End. I paired the Warrior t-shirt with some €1 pants which I picked up the day before the shoot in Vincent’s on Merchant’s Road, €9 silver boots from a sale, and some flowers which I felt sorry for, because they were discounted in Marks and Spencer. These little gems along the way from spots around Galway, paired together, made me feel pretty complete.
Throughout my life, I have met some incredibly inspiring people. I was raised by a wonderful Dad and a very strong Mam who showed me the world for what it was, who always poured her energy into others, and who continues to fight every day for the world she believes in. She is a warrior, and this post is for her, and all the other humans in my life who are trying to make a difference.
I hope this post inspires you to challenge the world around you, and be the truest versions of yourselves. We should be able to identify however we want, while loving whoever we want, and welcome those who do the same. You are more than enough, and the world needs you.
Thank you to Grey + Ginger for collaborating with me on this post and as always thanks to the caring, compassionate, and wonderful @lovejoules for taking these photos and also for a day of unwavering kindness.
G R E Y + G I N G E R
https://greyandginger.com/ | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter
Grey + Ginger interviewed me here: https://greyandginger.com/blogs/words/we-interview-erin-from-paper-mache-mind
P A P E R M A C H E M I N D | I N S T A G R A M | T W I T T E R | F A C E B O O K
